Capitolo II
Il modello della cucina cortese.
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| Les très riches heures du Duc de Berry 1413-16 circa - miniatura dei fratelli Limbourg Musée Condé di Chantilly |
Through the Middle Ages, the Renaissance and the Baroque, the kitchen is evolving and it is different enough to create the two strands still appreciated and considered the cornerstones of world cuisine, the current French and Italian.
The Middle Ages saw the development of a kitchen was fairly homogeneous and unified, both popular and professional, thanks to the Roman tradition, the influence of the Catholic Church and the spread of civilization from Provence polite. Born in the courts and castles deliver a new style of poetry, literature, architecture and art in general. And entering the kitchen table, where, after a period of barbaric behavior, follow the finest.
The characters of medieval European cuisine is the sum of flavors, mixing sweet and salty, the abundant use of spices, including on the basis of medical prescriptions, and as expensive, taking the meaning of status-symbol. Was also widespread use of acid-based sauces that they took their name from their color, such as Camellini than the camel's coat and saw almonds, raisins, cinnamon, cloves and bread softened nell'agresto, used for all dishes. The white sauce with almonds clean, bread crumbs, ginger and verjuice used to boil meat and meatless dishes. The green sauce, the only one arrivata ai giorni nostri, composta da prezzemolo, chiodi di garofano, zenzero, cannella, sale e aceto, utilizzata per carni lessate e ovine. Le spezie erano preparate in miscugli con specifiche dosi dettate sia dalle prescrizioni mediche sia dai gusti personali, come si riscontra in alcuni testi letterari dell'epoca: Fini, preparata con un'oncia di pepe nero, una di cannella e una di zenzero, un quarto di oncia di chiodi di garofano e un quarto di zafferano, utilizzata per tutti i piatti; Dolci, preparata con un'oncia di cannella e una di zenzero, un quarto di oncia di chiodi di garofano e lauro indiano non meglio quantificato, utilizzata per pesci in crosta e brodi; Nere , preparata con due once pepper, half a quarter of an ounce of cloves and two of nutmeg, used for all the strong flavors.
The Catholic Church, whose diktat food were strictly followed in Catholic countries, did not prohibit any food, but imposed their consumption to the liturgical calendar, with days thin, in which they could not eat meat and animal fats, grease and others , during which all could be eaten.
The Renaissance model
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| Cover of the book "Opera" Bartholomew Scappi |
During the Renaissance, the Italian food becomes a model for the whole of Europe, in the wake of the primacy of cultural, artistic and economic. It is dominated by the strong aromas of spices, the sour taste of the sauces and that of sugar scattered in all dishes. The "Libro de coquinaria art" of Martino da Como, as shown in the second half of the fifteenth century, the food had made a quantum leap compared to the previous kind, with innovations in the terminology used no more Arab, with the presence of the first recipes for pasta as vermicelli, ravioli, macaroni roman, and dry pasta such as macaroni Sicily, and the usage of more discrete acidic sauces and spices and herbs with the upgrading of an ancient Roman tradition, as Laura , sage, mint, marjoram, fennel and rosemary. Its kitchen has professional techniques and principles of great food, with methodological scheme based on individual transactions and cooking preliminary, to arrive at the overall total and artistic presentations of the dishes.
is thanks to the erudite papal librarian Bartolomeo Platina Chess said, that the recipes of Maestro Martino will be known all over Europe, through the first printed book of gastronomy and manuscript, "De Honesta voluptade et valetudine," published in Rome in 1474 and translated for 150 years in all European countries. The primacy of Italian gourmet is strengthened during the fifteenth century, thanks to a series of cooks, stewards and carvers, among them Bartholomew escape and are entrusted with the modernization of Italian cuisine. His " Opera" in 1570, is one of the most important pieces of kitchen, in which there are over a thousand recipes with tagliatelle, gnocchi, ravioli, agnolini, Cappelletti, omelette with truffles, similar to the current eggplant parmigiana, cakes, sweets, candies and other recipes that are the foundation of Italian cuisine of today.
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| Cover of "The kicking" Giovan Battista Rossetti |
The golden age of Italian cuisine is characterized by other chefs, authors of important publications, such as John de Rosselli, Young Master, by Christopher Messisbuco, Vincenzo Cervio. In the publication "The Carvajal " by Giovan Battista Rossetti, Ferrara 1584, is also described the logic of the course of the banquet, which is the order: cold appetizers, then the boiled meat and roasted vegetables, cheeses, fruits and desserts . The Rossetti down with this his work, what the service will initially be Italian, now in the centuries following the French, and also publishes for the first time the recipe for nougat Cremona, the use of serving the cheese into small pieces, as well as the grated pasta as it had always done; describes the functions of Canovaro, involved in the management and conservation of the wine cellars and describes the shape of the sommelier at the time, Bottles, employee matching food and wine which withdrew the wine from wineries and available in containers of snow and water.
Division in Italy was joined by some small statelets important elements such as the Italian language, known as "the Tuscan", which replaced the Latin literature, diplomacy, science, arts and gastronomy, which drew the raw materials and recipes from everywhere.
The Renaissance is considered the second great period enogastronomy West.
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