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La storia in tavola - Guida alla cultura gastronomica nei tempi

Capitolo II

Il modello della cucina cortese.

Les très riches heures du Duc de Berry
1413-16 circa - miniatura dei fratelli Limbourg
Musée Condé di Chantilly

Through the Middle Ages, the Renaissance and the Baroque, the kitchen is evolving and it is different enough to create the two strands still appreciated and considered the cornerstones of world cuisine, the current French and Italian.

The Middle Ages saw the development of a kitchen was fairly homogeneous and unified, both popular and professional, thanks to the Roman tradition, the influence of the Catholic Church and the spread of civilization from Provence polite. Born in the courts and castles deliver a new style of poetry, literature, architecture and art in general. And entering the kitchen table, where, after a period of barbaric behavior, follow the finest.

The characters of medieval European cuisine is the sum of flavors, mixing sweet and salty, the abundant use of spices, including on the basis of medical prescriptions, and as expensive, taking the meaning of status-symbol. Was also widespread use of acid-based sauces that they took their name from their color, such as Camellini than the camel's coat and saw almonds, raisins, cinnamon, cloves and bread softened nell'agresto, used for all dishes. The white sauce with almonds clean, bread crumbs, ginger and verjuice used to boil meat and meatless dishes. The green sauce, the only one arrivata ai giorni nostri, composta da prezzemolo, chiodi di garofano, zenzero, cannella, sale e aceto, utilizzata per carni lessate e ovine. Le spezie erano preparate in miscugli con specifiche dosi dettate sia dalle prescrizioni mediche sia dai gusti personali, come si riscontra in alcuni testi letterari dell'epoca: Fini, preparata con un'oncia di pepe nero, una di cannella e una di zenzero, un quarto di oncia di chiodi di garofano e un quarto di zafferano, utilizzata per tutti i piatti; Dolci, preparata con un'oncia di cannella e una di zenzero, un quarto di oncia di chiodi di garofano e lauro indiano non meglio quantificato, utilizzata per pesci in crosta e brodi; Nere , preparata con due once pepper, half a quarter of an ounce of cloves and two of nutmeg, used for all the strong flavors.

The Catholic Church, whose diktat food were strictly followed in Catholic countries, did not prohibit any food, but imposed their consumption to the liturgical calendar, with days thin, in which they could not eat meat and animal fats, grease and others , during which all could be eaten.

The Renaissance model

Cover of the book "Opera"

Bartholomew Scappi

During the Renaissance, the Italian food becomes a model for the whole of Europe, in the wake of the primacy of cultural, artistic and economic. It is dominated by the strong aromas of spices, the sour taste of the sauces and that of sugar scattered in all dishes. The "Libro de coquinaria art" of Martino da Como, as shown in the second half of the fifteenth century, the food had made a quantum leap compared to the previous kind, with innovations in the terminology used no more Arab, with the presence of the first recipes for pasta as vermicelli, ravioli, macaroni roman, and dry pasta such as macaroni Sicily, and the usage of more discrete acidic sauces and spices and herbs with the upgrading of an ancient Roman tradition, as Laura , sage, mint, marjoram, fennel and rosemary. Its kitchen has professional techniques and principles of great food, with methodological scheme based on individual transactions and cooking preliminary, to arrive at the overall total and artistic presentations of the dishes.

is thanks to the erudite papal librarian Bartolomeo Platina Chess said, that the recipes of Maestro Martino will be known all over Europe, through the first printed book of gastronomy and manuscript, "De Honesta voluptade et valetudine," published in Rome in 1474 and translated for 150 years in all European countries. The primacy of Italian gourmet is strengthened during the fifteenth century, thanks to a series of cooks, stewards and carvers, among them Bartholomew escape and are entrusted with the modernization of Italian cuisine. His " Opera" in 1570, is one of the most important pieces of kitchen, in which there are over a thousand recipes with tagliatelle, gnocchi, ravioli, agnolini, Cappelletti, omelette with truffles, similar to the current eggplant parmigiana, cakes, sweets, candies and other recipes that are the foundation of Italian cuisine of today.

Cover of "The kicking"

Giovan Battista Rossetti

The golden age of Italian cuisine is characterized by other chefs, authors of important publications, such as John de Rosselli, Young Master, by Christopher Messisbuco, Vincenzo Cervio. In the publication "The Carvajal " by Giovan Battista Rossetti, Ferrara 1584, is also described the logic of the course of the banquet, which is the order: cold appetizers, then the boiled meat and roasted vegetables, cheeses, fruits and desserts . The Rossetti down with this his work, what the service will initially be Italian, now in the centuries following the French, and also publishes for the first time the recipe for nougat Cremona, the use of serving the cheese into small pieces, as well as the grated pasta as it had always done; describes the functions of Canovaro, involved in the management and conservation of the wine cellars and describes the shape of the sommelier at the time, Bottles, employee matching food and wine which withdrew the wine from wineries and available in containers of snow and water.

Division in Italy was joined by some small statelets important elements such as the Italian language, known as "the Tuscan", which replaced the Latin literature, diplomacy, science, arts and gastronomy, which drew the raw materials and recipes from everywhere.

The Renaissance is considered the second great period enogastronomy West.

Continue with Chapter III

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La storia in tavola - Guida alla cultura gastronomica nei tempi

Chapter I

Michelangelo Merisi, detto il Caravaggio,

"Bacchino malato" (1593-1594)

Galleria Borghese, Roma

Mi accingo a iniziare quest'avventura, consapevole del fatto che sarà per nulla facile, con lo spirito in linea e in piena armonia alla passione e interessi che mi accomunano come individuo con un insieme di amanti gastronomi.

Con il termine gastronomia non ci si riferisce più al termine letterale della scienza che regola le funzioni dello stomaco, ma, ormai da diversi secoli, indichiamo con tale espressione la disciplina che tratta gli aspetti tecnici, culturali e artistici nel confezionare i piatti e tutto ciò che riguarda la tavola, la mise-en-place della stessa, l'evoluzione del gusto, e il galateo inteso as "good manners".

For the man power is a physiological and natural, but it is also history, culture, traditions, beliefs, taboos and superstitions. The evolution of man has led, consequently, that the food with the birth of the kitchen first and then food, bringing significant changes in food preparation, new techniques in professional organizations which have been recognized international quality and innovative recipes for both for both tools. The evolution of our habits has led us recently to use a new term, "food and wine," which involves wine, considered one of the best enhancers for millennia food, food.

models and suggestions have been and continue to be characteristic expressions of great civilizations, though only a handful of cookbooks have come down to us.

Mesopotamian tablets with cuneiform writing feature

The finding many clay tablets has shown that there was a complex and advanced catering for over 4000 years ago in the fertile Crescent, due to ancient Mesopotamia. Preparing more than 300 types of bread. They were popular fruits like coconut, apples, pears, figs, pomegranates, grapes, mushrooms, truffles, olives, and herbs. The meat was eaten pork, lamb, animals, poultry, game and sea fish and freshwater crustaceans and molluscs. They had prepared some sausages and at least 20 different types of cheese. They were used daily fats such as lard sauce and sesame oil, but the most widely used and is still found today in the Arab-Turkish eating habits, was a fried onion, garlic e porro. Erano usati per arricchire il gusto delle vivande miele, diverse salse e sale. La bevanda più consumata era una sorta di birra, mentre il vino, che veniva dalle terre del Nord, Nord-Ovest, zone caucasiche scampate alle ultime glaciazioni, era molto costoso. Solo i ceti più abbienti e i sacerdoti potevano permetterselo. La cultura Mesopotamica conosceva le tecniche della riduzione e concentrazione dei sapori. La cucina di corte dell'impero assiro-babilonese può essere considerata la prima enogastronomia del pianeta. Da allora, due concezioni culinarie proseguiranno in parallelo: da una parte la costosa gastronomia dell'elite basata sulle tecniche professionali e sulla creatività dei cuochi, dall'altra la cucina popolare incentrata sui prodotti land and the experience of recipes.

The power of the Egyptians, Phoenicians, Hittites and Jews, 4000 years ago, or rather that of the wealthier classes, was based on cereals, vegetables, dairy, sheep , fish, fruit, beer and wine as we receive representations from the wall and finds the food remains in the graves. The recipes were written down by doctors and priests, but lacked the technical preparation, which suggests a not very elaborate and refined cuisine.

table depicting a Chinese mandarin

A great food come down to our days almost completely intact is the Mandarin Chinese based on rigid preparation techniques while it is very elastic with respect to ingredients. Another distinctive feature is the alternation of flavors, the rule of the many courses with small portions and the principle of the first dishes to be seen and then to be enjoyed. The miracle that allowed the model Mandarin Chinese to come to this day is precisely the existence of a gastronomic literature merits of state officials, is precisely the mandarins, who were writers, poets and connoisseurs, who also invented many recipes. The high Chinese cuisine is, in fact, called Imperial or Mandarin, and has influenced all the cuisines of the Far East.

With many different recipes and literary descriptions of tables we have received, especially from Magna Graecia, study the customs of the ancient Greeks and the peoples of the Mediterranean from the fourth century BC C.. Archestratus Gela has left some fish recipes baked Sicilian use on grilled, fried and boiled. To Fry's and was used mainly to flavor olive oil as well as vinegar, salt, herbs and cheese. The firings, short and simple, we suggest a healthy and tasty cooking addressed territorial excellence, similar to the traditional southern Italy.

Apicius, in the middle of the first century AD, wrote De Re Coquinaria, expanded around the fourth century, describes in detail the great food and wine Roman the imperial period. Dishes of animals from Africa, Europe, the Middle and Far East such as cranes, beccafichi, pigeons, ostriches, flamingos and parrots were presented on the menus of the Roman patricians. Lovers of traditional products, the Romans stocked up on diamonds to Ravenna and Ancona, Spain mullet, sea bass in Turkey, Morocco truffles, spices in India and many other products from as many places. During the period the Imperial Republican frugality in the kitchen had become a distant memory. The seasonings used were "defritum" cooked must ancestor of our balsamic vinegar and liquamen or "garum," sauce made with fish entrails steeped in salt thereof, as well as other related sauces with flour. Pasta dishes, lasagna lagane similar to modern, sausages (sausages), slices of chicken livers, brains lightly cooked dishes, chicken prepared in different ways, stuffed rabbits, sheep cooked in various ways, in piglets suckling pig, rare fish, oysters and seafood laden tables of the couches, and it was all washed down with more or less aromatic wines. The spice was used as pepper, ginger, much rarer, and saffron and cinnamon were used more by women as a cosmetic together with butter. Contrary to popular belief, the Romans were very fond of plants and herbs, the more fat used was olive oil that Apicius distinguishes good and green, the latter most valuable and produced from olives harvested early. The rules of the food were the sum of many flavors and the mix of sweet and salty, abundant use of herbs and sauces acid diluted vinegar or verjuice, juice of unripe grapes crushed and seasoned, in addition to those made with fish or with added sea salt, honey and cooked must as sweeteners.

Wine was served by the sommelier at the time, the "haustatores, who left a set of guidelines on the technique of tasting. We can speak of a refined cuisine and evolved enough to influence the low-medieval European cuisine and Arabic. The first century AD can be considered the first great period enogastronomy West.

Gastronomy Arab certainly takes its cue from the Eastern Roman Empire and the Persian Empire, in turn, heir to the Mesopotamian cuisine, enough to be considered daughter. Affect the friendly European cuisine, particularly the English-Catalan and Italian, after 1000 AD, as confirmed by the medieval cookery books published in Italy in the thirteenth century and those of the fourteenth century in Spain, Portugal, France, England and Germany. Legitimately attributed to the Arabs is the importation of rice, artichoke, sugar, eggplant, spinach and many other crops.

Continue to: Chapter II